Certainly the best way to visit the Cinque Terre is by train. The train from Genova Brignole to Riomaggiore, or any of the other cities, takes between 90 minutes and 2.5 hours. The InterCity (IC) train takes about 80 minutes, but the regional train works just as well and costs about 1/3 as much. These trains are only 4.80 euro each way, and have only second class, but they can be smelly and old. (I will post about the Italian train system later).
From the train you will pass many lovely homes. In spring their gardens are bursting with color, purple, red white, every window box is filled with blooms. It is summer now, and the gardens are still filled with beautiful flowers, Bougainvillea cover every wall and pour out onto sidewalks. The peach and beige homes contrast sharply with the green, lush gardens and bright flowers.
When you exit the train in Riomaggiore you can normally follow the crowd to the ticket office and tourist office, which will be to the right. The tourist office can be very useful, there they sell Cinque Terre passes, postcards, travel books and a few souvenirs.
The tourist office is at a little piazza, where you can find this lovely mural and places to sit. To the right from the office is the city center, and to the left begins the Via dell’amore, the first leg on the Cinque Terre path. I traveled to the city center first.
A long tunnel with a blue ceiling connects you to the city center. All along the tunnel is a mosaic made from tiles, stones and shells, showing pictures of sea life. Following the tunnel you will reach fresh air and again have a choice- right to the marina and beach, or left to the city. I followed the stairs down to the marina, hoping to see a beautiful view of the city. Down this path there is a diving center which offers kayaks for 7 euro/hour and snorkel rental for 10 euro/day as well as scuba excursions. The Cinque Terre is known to be the best place for diving in the Mediterranean, and is a protected area.
The marina is tiny, surrounded by restaurants, and boats are perched all along the sidewalk, small beach and in the limited water. Tourists climb the jetties, perhaps they are trying to spot a whale! Dolphins and whales visit the area, usually in early spring. Walking towards the jetties you again have a choice to make – hike to the nature observation point, or go down to the rocky beach. The beach is quite well attended, despite the rocks, but this isn’t for me. I was feeling energetic so I started the hike up to the observation point. The walk is 25 minutes UP, and takes you above and around the beach. The walk can be a little hazardous, so like the whole path of the Cinque Terre, you should be wearing reasonable shoes and jeans if possible. In the summer it’s a bit too hot for jeans though, so I carefully avoid the thistle that lines the path. Parts of the stones are broken and falling down, and the path can be very narrow in some places.
After a set of grueling steps you reach a bench and flat area which hugs the shore again. Signs indicate native plants for those naturalists who speak Italian. After a few moments you reach a refreshment point and naturalist library, the perfect lookout point for whale spotting and a good place to take a break. The wildflowers are in full bloom in late June, and I’m particularly charmed with the bright red poppies. Around the back of the naturalist library I found a bench and a little cave, lit with lamps, perfect for a little extra exploring.
Back down to the city I find many American tourists, and all the touristy things they appreciate. Signs in English say things like ‘coffee to go’ and ‘big pizza’ and I even see a self service lavanderia (laundromat), something very rare in Italy.
Through the tunnel again and back to the start of Via dell’amore, I am armed with my camera and my Cinque Terre pass. Let’s go!
The music was lovely. A guest conductor really wowed the audience, and I learned that Italians clap…and clap….and clap….and clap….until you feel like your hands might fall off.
